Alpujarra | Mountain Walking Holidays

The Ideal Walking Holiday

Walking in the Taha de Pitres La Alpujarra — The Ideal Walking Holiday

Perhaps I’m getting “soft” as I get older, though I like to think that I am more discerning in my choice of walking holiday. My time is precious and I like to think that the following is my ideal list when searching out a destination suitable for my next trip away.

Good Weather
Stunning Scenery
Great Paths
A Sense of History
Interesting Wildlife
Culture to Discover
Nice Companions
Somewhere nice to Stay
Good, Fresh, Local Food
Ease of Access
Relatively Safe

Now I am biased because I have found my ideal destination and return to it frequently, mainly for my own enjoyment but also to lead others in what I consider the best hill walking in the world! This is The Alpujarra on the southern side of Spain’s Sierra Nevada Mountains and hills and valleys close by.

The Best Hill Walking

The walking in La Alpujarra is unsurpassed. Medieval paths criss-cross the landscape, sometimes cut through improbable cliffs and crossing ancient bridges some dating back to Roman times. This landscape was mainly formed by the Arabs, who settled in and ruled the ancient Kingdom of Al Andalus between the 7th and 14th centuries. Terraces carved out by the Arabs and water channels known as “acequias” form some of the trails in addition to the traditional pack horse trails.

Depending on the altitude of your chosen walk, you may be walking through terraces of citrus trees (great scrumping in March, April and May) with the heady scent of orange blossom in March. Higher up you will pass through olive and almonds, walnuts and chestnuts. The time for spectacular almond blossom is February and March.

spring oranges Lecrin

All of the allotments and terraces in this once agriculturally barren area are fed with water by the acequia’s, which feed water from the mountain streams and rivers across the whole area so everyone has a share of the water. The acequia have paths along side and can make for great walking though in some places you’ll need a head for heights. In addition to irrigation, water seeps from the acequia into the ground and springs known as fuente are abundant. One spring that we regularly pass is naturally carbonated and a swig of fizzy water from a spring can be quite a shock to the uninitiated!

Partly because the terrain is difficult for modern farm machinery, and partly because until recently its relative remoteness, modern farming is not prevalent in the Alpujarra. Because of this the old terraces often remain in tact and the traditional habitats remain for the wildlife.

Abundant Wildlife

Ibex, Sierra Nevada Wild flowers are abundant in April, May and June with many varieties of orchid. The wild mountain goat or Iberian Ibex is especially common and will be seen throughout the year. Bird watchers will not be disappointed at any time of year. Especially common are Golden and Booted Eagles, Egyptian and Griffon Vultures, Bee Eaters and Crag Martins (and many more). Our Wildlife of the Sierra Nevada Walking Holiday will help you explore the flora and fauna or the area.

The paths although passing through valleys and terraces, sometimes along acequias, essentially form a network connecting the villages. The characteristic of the villages in the Alpujarra is their Arab origins with architecture that would not be out of place in the High Atlas of Morocco. These “pretty” mainly white washed villages are epitomised by narrow streets (to keep the sun out), flat roofs, communal laundry washing houses and decorative chimneys. Perhaps the prettiest and best for walkers are Capileira, Bubion and Pampaneira.

All of the villages and small towns have an allotted market day. In itself these can be a spectacle, but the prices of fresh produce in season is amazing. Often the stallholders will be charging a Euro for a kilo of fresh produce and at the height of season that might become a Euro for a carrier bag of whichever fruit or veg they need to sell.

Walking Holiday Base

The Alpujarra or southern slopes of the Sierra Nevada is quite a big area so in terms of accessibility for the best walking, prettiest villages, etc., especially for a first acquaintance I’d stick to the western end. Two villages either of which would provide a suitable base depending on your chosen itinerary. If it’s just walking and a mountain environment you want the Capileira is a great base. If however you are visiting in the cooler months, March to mid April or want to visit other sights e.g. The Alhambra in Granada then Lanjarón is a good base and especially the Hotel Alcadima. From Lanjarón the Lecrin Valley is also accessible which provides great walking when there is the likelihood of cool weather.

The local (British) mountain guides, Sierra Nevada Guides have a host of additional information on their website including some walk descriptions. You can also hire a guide for a day or two to show you the best trails available.

Hotel Alcadima Lanjaron

If it’s a holiday, organised for you that you are looking for, then Mountain Walking Holidays run a range of Alpujarra Walking Holidays throughout the year based from the Hotel Alcadima in Lanjarón.

Mike and Jane who run Mountain Walking Holidays are both qualified International Mountain Leaders and will be happy to chat with you about the various options for a walking holiday In Spain’s Alpujarra.

Exploring the Alpujarras

In this blog, we take a look at what it’s really like to go walking in the Alpujarra

Set in the heart of Spain’s beautiful Andalucía region, the Alpujarras are a collection of mountain terraces and deep valleys, which lie beneath the southern slopes of the mighty Sierra Nevada mountain range. Full of wildlife, wildflowers, luscious woodlands, stunning views and quaint Spanish villages, the Alpujarras offer the ultimate in walking experiences and is one of our favourite destinations to explore.

Getting Around the Alpujarras

Situated to the south of the city of Granada, getting to the Alpujarras is simple enough. Although formally isolated by rough terrain, these days, a number of roads run from the major towns surrounding the region and into the foothills. Buses also run to the Alpujarras and to the villages set between its slopes; but why ride when you can walk?

Once in the Alpujarras, and looking to explore, you’ll find that maps and English guidebooks are available in most local villages, although we can provide maps for you should you decide to plan ahead.

Where To Stay While Walking in the Alpujarras

There are many, stunning villages scattered about the Alpujarras, most featuring authentic Moorish-style whitewashed architecture, flat roofed, covered in mud, topped by strange domed chimneys and surrounded by colourful plants,.

Within these isolated villages, cutaway from modern life in the dramatic foothills, you’ll find that accommodation is plentiful. You’ll find many opportunities for lodging, hotels and self-catered villas, each offering its own unique style and gateway to the Alpujarra experience. When visiting in the summer months, we recommend finding accommodation with a pool; there is no better way to cool off after a long day’s walking than a dip in the water.

Although many of the pretty, whitewashed villages provide a good base for your trip, Capileira is undoubtedly one of the best places to stay. There are several good day walks to be had straight from the village and plenty more just a short car or bus ride away.

The Best Hiking Trails of the Alpujarras

At Mountain Walking Holidays, we have a bit of a soft spot for Capileira. From this quaint little village, found in the northern reaches of the Alpujarras, you have easy access to stunning walking trails around the Poqueira river and the Taha de Pitres region beyond.

Walking from the village also means it is possible to venture up into the Sierra Nevada without having to tackle some of the steeper terrain, as the slopes up into the mountains from Capileira are gentler than most. The striking terrain of the Hoya del Portillo, set on the slopes high above the village, is a good place to start exploring the mountains. Only a half an hour walk from Hoya brings us to the staggering viewpoint of Puerto Molino, where you can see for miles over the Sierra Nevada to the summits in the distance.

Venture further from here, and you can find more stunning walks, this time onto the slopes of Mulhacen, the highest mountain in the Sierra Nevada, and in mainland or continental Spain. In this region, you’ll find an incredible caldera, the basin of a former glacier, now filled with water and melted snow, the beautiful river Mulhacen, and the Refugio Poqueira, a mountain retreat where you can grab a bite to eat and enjoy the awe-inspiring views.

If you are restricted to travelling only in the summer months, the walks from Hoya del Portillo or Trevelez, the highest village in Spain are your best bet to stay cool. Up here at around 3,000m, you can expect the temperature to be around 15 to 20 degrees; not cold, but certainly not the blistering heat you’ll experience on the southern slopes. This region of Spain can get very hot in July and August, making walking in the Alpujarras tough for anyone. The best times to visit are March to June and September to November. That being said, if the sun is out, it is possible to walk in t-shirts throughout the winter — yes, you read that correctly.

Ready to come and explore the exquisite Alpujarra for yourself? Then book a trip with Mountain Walking Holidays today!

Bird Watching in the Alpujarra

Sardinian Warbler in the Alpujarra, southern Spain — Sardinian Warbler feeding on grapes at Finca Montaña

This years grape harvest was poor in The Alpujarra with many bunches of grapes shriveling up or bunches with only 5 or 6 grapes. As a consequence, many of the “frugal” bunches were left unpicked awaiting our annual pruning session in mid December. This coupled with a long, hotter than normal Autumn meant that not only did we have the normal birds hanging around, but that we even had a surprise visitor that we have not seen in the 11 years we have been here. A Sardinian Warbler which spent a lot of time feeding on the unpicked grapes. Even when we did finally prune the vines, we left the grapes dangling and were rewarded visitations from Robins and Blue Tits in addition to the Sardinian Warbler.

Our House, Finca Montaña is 1300m above sea level and it can get quite cool up here in the late autumn and winter. Snow doesn’t usually last more than 3 days as it’s always warm when the sun is out. However the night time temperature does often get down to around -8 degrees centigrade. That said our winter resident birds include: Golden Eagles, Griffon Vultures, Kestrels, Larks (crested and Sky), Black Eared Wheatears, Black Caps, Stone Chats, Robins, Blue Tits, Jays, Magpies and Ravens. A little above us (in the Juniper) we have Ring Ouzels (from around 2100m). But never before a Sardinian Warbler.

We are now planning to leave bunches of grapes every year in the hope of attracting more birds.

Black-eared Wheatear in southern Spain — Black-eared Wheatear at Finca Montaña

In Summer the list of birds to be seen expands dramatically to include Egyptian Vulture’s, Hoopoe’s, Bee Eaters and various swifts and Swallows to name a few.

Higher up on the mountain tops we are rewarded with Alpine Accentors which are remarkably tame on the summit of Mulhacen 3482 (mainland Spain’s highest mountain) where they have got used to being amongst people and feeding off the crumbs and remnants of sandwiches.

Spring is a good time to visit with both the migratory birds passing through and the summer visitors arriving. Finca Montaña is ideally placed for bird watching, situated very remote, in its own 5 acres of grounds but surrounded by mostly undeveloped natural mountain side and a few small holdings still mainly farmed in a traditional way.

Walking in The Alpujarra

Mike and Jane bought their Mountain House – Finca Montaña in 2002 and started to explore the Alpujarra and mountains of The Sierra Nevada. As Mountain House Holidays, they started organising walking holidays based from the Alpujarran Spa Town of Lanjaron in 2003.

In the ten years since they started, they believe that they have refined their holidays into a genuine quality product. Most holidays are now based at the stunning Hotel Alcadima which is a holiday experience in itself. “Somedays it’s hard to get our guests out walking as the restful gardens and pool are so appealing!”

Walking in the Alpujarra is some of the best hillwalking in the world. Medieval mule tracks; Roman Bridges; paths through terraces cut into the hillsides still being worked; pretty white villages built by the Berber Arabs who colonised the area 600 years ago; and if you time it right stunning spring flowers or almond blossom. It is possible to walk in the Alpujarra all year, though best to avoid the hottest weeks from mid-July and all of August. Winter can be surprisingly hot, walking in T shirts in January and February is not uncommon with 80% of winter days being “blue sky” days. Spring with its amazing flowers is our favourite, April, May and June.

Mike and Jane supported by their friend Martin lead all of the holidays themselves so there is a real connection with your holiday company and genuine local knowledge often lacking with the larger companies who bring staff into the area. Additionally, Mike, Jane and Martin are all qualified International Mountain Leaders which is the qualification required in Spain to take people into the mountains.

In addition to organising holidays for individuals or even large groups, Mike, Jane and Martin have established “Sierra Nevada Guides” who undertake a range of mountain guiding throughout the year. Sierra Nevada Guides are the only qualified British guides (IML’s) operating in the Sierra Nevada.

Exploring Alpujarra villages on a Alpujarra walking holiday — Exploring Alpujarra villages

Join one of Mountain Walking Holidays spring and summer trips to walk in the Alpujarra.