Sierra Nevada Walking | Mountain Walking Holidays

Climbing the Magnificent Mulhacen

Join us on a trip up or around the Sierra Nevada’s highest mountain: Mulhacen

At Mountain Walking Holidays, we often find ourselves walking the trails that lead to the 3,482 m peak of Mulhacen, the tallest mountain in the Sierra Nevada, and in fact, all of continental Spain.

A tough, but awe-inspiring climb, the trails of the legendary Mulhacen lead you through staggering landscapes and striking terrain, all with the ultimate goal of reaching the top and gazing across the breathtaking Sierra Nevada.

Getting to the Mighty Mulhacen

It’s best to set out early in the morning, with the best season for climbing being the summer months; it gets very cold in the winter! Getting there early not only allows you to get the climbing done before the heat of the day starts to sap your energy, but also before large groups of climbers can arrive to join you on your ascent.

Most people tackling Mulhacen will take the National Park bus from Capileira village up to Alto del Chorrillo, a dramatic set of rolling hillsides that lie in the shadow of Mulhacen’s peak. Here, at 2,700 m up, you’ll get a breathtaking view of mountains south ridge and the sometimes snow-capped summit that you’ll be aiming for.

If you want a more challenging experience, you can also start the climb from Hoya del Portillo, a patch of mountainous forest 600 m below Alto del Chorrillo. This is often where Mountain Walking Holidays trips up the Sierra Nevada’s tallest peak begin. Of course, it’s fine to use the bus and the south ridge, climb the peak and head back down to the bus stop, but this is a short day and will leave you wanting more; instead, we do things a little differently.

Ascending Mulhacen in the Sierra Nevada

Our trip often starts from Hoya del Portillo at roughly 2,160 m. Heading out early, climbers can enjoy the cool morning temperatures in Mulhacen’s forests. Even with the sun already high the sky, the shade of the trees makes for the perfect climate to start stretching your legs. Our motto is start cold, and warm up by walking uphill!

After our first thirty minute stint, we’ll arrive at the Puerto Molino viewpoint, with excellent views of the mountain peak. We’ll then continue along the ridge of Prado Llano before joining the old road along to Alto del Chorrillo – where most novice climbers start. If you are climbing with Mountain Walking Holidays, now is the time where we’ll stop for a snack and take in the scenery of the beautiful Sierra Nevada. We’ll then start our ascent to the summit.

The actual climb to the peak of Mulhacen, along the south ridge, is very relaxed and enjoyable; no tough walls to scale or rocks to traverse. In the winter, this part of the trail is often coated with snow, but the summer sees the return of a well-defined path leading to the summit. This area is a great spot for taking photos of the plant and wildlife that surrounds Mulhacen’s peak.

Reaching The Summit

Around five hours after departing from Hoya del Portillo, we’ll reach the summit of Mulhacen; a distance of 11.4 km with a total height gained of 1,412 m.

Leaving early often means we are ahead of the crowds, and the summit is usually serene and quiet. The views from the summit are simply staggering, stretching for miles over the Sierra Nevada. We also often catch glimpses of Iberian ibex while taking in the sights from the peak. Known locally as cabra, ibex are mountain goats with large, illustrious curved horns; the largest animals in the Sierra Nevada.

What Goes Up Must Come Down: Descending Mulhacen

After a short break on the summit, it’s time to descend the mountain before the crowds from Alto del Chorrillo begin to show up. Instead of taking the traditional path back down to the bus stop, we follow zigzagging path down the screes of Mulhacen’s western flank, which gives great views of both Mulhacen’s north face and nearby Alcazaba.

Soon climbers with Mountain Walking Holidays will reach the Caldera, a stunning basin filled with water; a beautiful contrast against the dry and rocky landscape of Mulhacen’s western slopes. Here sits an unmanned “bivouac” hut, with bunk beds, tables and chairs. From the hut, you can sit, rest and take in the impressive view back up to Mulhacen’s summit, or the landscape that surrounds you; all while enjoying a lunch supplied by our guides!

From the Caldera, circle back round to Hoya del Portillo, stopping at the mountainside Poqueira Refuge for a rest on and a bit more sightseeing on the way.
All that remains now is to drive back to a bar in Capileira for the customary drink and plan for the next outing!

You too can climb Mulhacen on one of our Sierra Nevada Walking Holidays. We also run a Tour of Mulhacen walking holiday, tracing a route around the mighty mountain. Contact Mountain Walking Holidays today and book with us for an unrivalled walking experience.

The Tour of Mulhacén

Contemplating the summit of Mulhacen from the refugio Caldera

Mulhacén 3478m is the highest mountain in mainland Spain and is situated in the Sierra Nevada mountains of southern Spain. The Sierra Nevada is also Spain’s largest national park making this a very special area. The name Mulhacén is taken from the name of the penultimate Arab king, “Muly Hacen” when this was the Kingdom of Al-Andalus. Legend has it that he is buried on the mountain!

This is an especially nice walk, not just because of its stunning mountain scenery, but also the Sierra Nevada is famous for its wildlife. Our aim with The Tour of Mulhacén is to combine the best aspects of the Sierra Nevada National and Natural Parks, that make them such a special place, into a week long hike. This includes ascents of the two highest mountains in the Sierra Nevada: Veleta 3396m and Mulhacén 3482m.

A unique journey through the Sierra Nevada mountains, with the mighty Mulhacén in view. We start in the south at the mountain village of Capileira, following the GR240 to Trevelez, then over a high mountain pass to the north of the range, with it’s rugged scenery and wonderful views of the high peaks. From here we traverse the northern slopes staying in mountain refuges before returning to the south side for a final ascent of the two highest mountains, Veleta and Mulhacén itself. A true mountain experience and we believe a worthy challenge to the popular Tour of Mont Blanc!

Mulhacén situated in The Sierra Nevada National Park near the city of Granada around two hours drive from Malaga. There are several long distance trails passing through or around the Sierra Nevada, but none that combine the villages, the highest peaks and pass through the different and varied climatic and wildlife zones in a way that can be enjoyed.

Itinerary:

Day 1
Capileira to Trevelez

A route following the GR240 between the two highest villages in Andalucia. 6 to 7 hours walking with about 800m of ascent. However we take the National Park bus to the viewpoint of Puerto Molino 2400m where you will get your first glimpse of Mulhacen. From here the route is mostly downhill back to the GR240 and Trevelez.

The section after leaving the forest road although signposted has a very remote feel and requires careful navigation. In its own right a superb day of hill walking!

Day 2
Trevelez to The Postero Alto Refuge
Ascending the Rio Trevelez to Puerto Trevelez before descending to the Postero Alto Refuge. About 9 to 10 hours walking with 1500m of ascent. The hardest day on The Tour!

From Trevelez we follow the pleasant Rio Trevelez until the steep ascent of El Horcajo. With Horcajo conquered, we are now in the alpine zone and journey through a beautiful valley and alpine pasture to our high point of Puerto Trevelez at 2800m. All that remains is downhill to the Postero Alto Refuge.

The Postero Alto Refuge is a manned Refuge and although the bedrooms are shared, the food is plentiful and wholesome and the bar well stocked!

Day 3
Postero Alto Refuge to The Peña Partida Refugio (Bothy).

An easier day with a chance to pass the spectacular waterfalls of Los Lavaderos de la Reina. About 6 hours walking with about 650m of ascent.

The first 2 hours follows good paths through forest and clearings though gradually gaining height. Eventually we leave the forest behind and ascend gently through an area of remote mountainside. Although the day essentially follows the GR240, there is some tricky navigation across the remote mountain slopes where signposting is minimal should the mist come down!

The Peña Partida Refuge is unmanned. There are two wooden sleeping platforms that will each sleep four people. You will need a sleeping mat, sleeping bag, spare clothes, food etc. There is water about 5 minutes walk from the refugio.

Day 4
Peña Partida Refuge to The Cortijos del Hornillo (Bothy).
8 to 9 hours with the last 1.5 hours uphill.

For the first three hours we follow the GR240 mainly downhill to the Cucaracha (Cockroach) Refuge. Now we take a traversing path past the Aceral Refuge to the Rio Real. We now join the “Estrella” path and follow the river downstream to cross the spectacular bridge over the Rio Guarnon.

Now a final ascent begins to the Cortijos del Hornillo. Here there are several buildings and rooms that have sleeping platforms. Besides the larger of the buildings is an old threshing circle and just beyond that is a water supply. If this is not running you will have passed a small stream about 5 minutes before reaching Hornillo. Hornillo is a stunning situation to stay.

Day 5
The Cortijos del Hornillo to the University Albergue at Hoya de la Mora
A stunning day in the mountains. 5 to 6 hours.

We start the day with a short climb to join a path that traverses around the mountainside and leads us around into the San Juan valley. We continue to contour around to where the river crosses the path. The best way on is to climb the steep east side of the stream until we gain the stunning alpine pastures above. Continue on sheep tracks northwards until you reach the path that leads across to the observatory and down to the University Albergue. Beers, showers and a nice restaurant!

Day 6
Hoya de la Mora to the Refugio Poqueira via Veleta (3394m)
Around 6 hours walking.

Not as hard as you might think! Veleta means “weather vane” and at 3394m is the 2nd highest mountain in the Sierra Nevada. Our prefered option is to take the National Park bus to 3000m before the ascent of Veleta. This gives us time to take little used paths up Veleta’s north West ridge. Veleta is an easy and popular mountain and the summit is usually busy, however the path we use means we rarely pass others until we reach the summit. Today we can expect to see Ibex, Alpine Accentors and Vultures.

After Veleta we descend to the Carihuela Refuge (bothy), a good viewpoint and place to sit admiring the best views of both Mulhacén and Alcazaba (3371m and 3rd highest in the Sierra Nevada).

We now follow the old Sierra Nevada road for a short distance before descending the Rio Seco to spend the night in the Refugio Poqueira, a manned refuge with showers.

Day 7
A circuit on Mulhacén, 7 to 8 hours.

We choose to ascend Mulhacén by the “gentle” south ridge. Although this is a popular route and there will undoubtedly be others doing the same, it is a nice route offering plenty of sight seeing opportunities and some nice flowers in early summer. Our descent is via the west flank to the Caldera Refuge (bothy) with some fine views across the north face.

From the Caldera we take little used paths for about half of the descent back to the Refugio where we can celebrate our ascent of mainland Spain’s highest mountain.

Day 8
Refugio Poqueira to Capileira, 4 to 5 hours

Initially a steep path down to the Cortijo las Tomas and a further descent into the delightful Rio Poqueira. The path undulates for a while and there are a couple of river crossings before our descent to the hydro electric plant and the deserted village of La Cebadilla. From here we follow the road and signposted paths back to Capileira.

The Tour is now complete! There is no medal, no certificate, just the satisfaction of knowing you completed the Tour of Mulhacén.

Is this trip for me?
Most days we will be walking for around 7-8 hours on straight forward marked paths. You will need to carry a medium weight rucksack for the whole trip (we would recommend around 45 litres).

Mulhacén is 3482m and some paths cross the mountains at around 3000m. At this altitude you are likely to puff more, but should not feel any adverse affects.

We are offering the trek during August and September. You can reserve a place on the Tour of Mulhacén webpage or give us a call on 01433 639368 to talk through any questions you may have.

The Tour of the Mulhacén Trek

Are you up for a real mountain adventure? Join us on the Tour of Mulhacén in 2017.

Mulhacén is 3482m high and is the highest mountain in mainland Spain and indeed the Iberian Peninsular. It is situated in The Sierra Nevada National Park near the city of Granada around two hours drive from Malaga. With around 300 days of sunshine a year the settled weather gives a much better chance for a week of walking in warm settled weather than the Alps or Pyrenees.

The Sierra Nevada is Spain’s largest National Park. It’s uniqueness stems from the large number of endemic species (over 100 with 63 species of endemic plants). During the Tour of Mulhacén walking holiday, we hope to share with you as much of the unique wildlife as possible.

flowers of the Sierra Nevada on a Mountain Walking Holiday — The (endemic) Star of the Snows

There are several long distance trails passing through or around the Sierra Nevada but none that combine the villages, the highest peaks and pass through the different and varied climatic and wildlife zones in a way that can be enjoyed.

The Sierra Nevada with its proximity to Granada was part of the old Arab Kingdom of Al Andalus. In fact the name Mulhacén is derived from Muley Hasan, the penultimate arab king, who legend states is buried on the mountain. The southern slopes of the Sierra Nevada are known as the Alpujarra and are characterised by pretty white villages in the Moorish style. Capileira, where this walk starts and finishes is perhaps the prettiest.

Our aim with The Tour of Mulhacén is to combine all of the best aspects that make the Sierra Nevada National and Natural Parks a special pace to enjoy into a week long hike. This includes ascents of the two highest mountains in the Sierra Nevada: Veleta 3396m and Mulhacén 3482m. This is a weeks walking itinerary with most days being of around 7 or 8 hours. The paths are mainly stoney mountain paths with some steep sections. We strongly recommend good hillwalking boots and the use of poles.

Walking in the Alpujarra — Near Trevelez

Mountain Walking Holidays through their extensive knowledge of this area have created this itinerary as a supported hike where most days your baggage is transferred for you. For one night you will have a real ‘mountain experience’ by staying in a remote mountain shelter and will need to carry any spare clothes, sleeping bag and mat for 2 days. There is a 2nd unsupported night where you will need to carry a sheet sleeping bag and personal clothes.

It is possible to undertake this hike unsupported but there are several long days with a lot of climbing. The good thing is though, there is with careful planning only one night out where you are genuinely in the wild where you will need to carry any food, stoves and sleeping bag.

Day 1 – Capileira to Trevelez.
A route following the GR240 between the two highest villages in mainland Spain.
6 to 7 hours walking with about 800m of ascent.

Day 2 – Trevelez to The Postero Alto Refuge.
Ascending the Rio Trevelez to Puerto Trevelez before descending to the Postero Alto Refuge. About 8 hours walking with 1500m of ascent.

Day 3 – Postero Alto Refuge to The Pena Partida Refugio (shelter).
An easier day with a chance to pass the spectacular waterfalls of Los Lavaderos de la Reina. About 6 hours walking with about 650m of ascent.

Day 4 – Pena Partida to The University Albergue at Hoya de la Mora.
Traversing the northern corries of Mulhacén and Veletta, these are less trodden, but wondferful valleys; to be savoured! 16.5Km with 1400m of ascent. About 8 hours walking.

Iberian Ibex, a common sight in the Sierra Nevada

Day 5
Hoya de la Mora to the Refugio Poqueira via Veleta (3394m) and Mulhacén (3482m).
Not as hard as you might think! We take the National Park bus to 3000m before the ascent of Veleta. Between Veleta and Mulhacén it is mainly easy walking apart from the final 400m climb. We end the day with a celebration in the Refugio Poqueira. 16.8Km with around 950m of ascent.

Day 6 – Refugio Poqueira to Capileira
A descent of the delightful Rio Poqueira back to Capileira. 4 to 5 hours.

How it works:
We meet you at Malaga Airport. From there we transport you to a simple hotel in the mountain village of Capileira, which at 1300m will start to help you with your acclimatisation to altitude. After one night in Capileira our trek begins……

The cost includes all travel, food (from supper on day one until breakfast on the day of departure), accommodation and the services of qualified International Mountain Leaders who know the area very well.

You will need to cover the costs of any drinks, additional snacks and provide your own flights.

Refugion Poqueira on the Tour of Mulhacen walking holiday — A celebration at the Refugio Poqueira!

Dates for 2017:

22nd to 30th July

16th to 24th September

(If you are a group wanting to undertake this trek with us, we are happy to discuss other dates).

Please note that on your arrival day we ask that your flight arrives into Malaga before midday. On the day of your departure, please arrange a flight that departs after 2pm.

Contact Mountain Walking Holidays today and book with us for this unique and unrivalled walking adventure.

Cold Fleabane, a very rare endemic species

Accommodation on this holiday

Night 1 – Capileira, simple hotel

Night 2 – Trevelez, simple hotel

Night 3 – Postero Alto Mountain Refuge, bunkroom accommodation

Night 4 – Penna Partida Refuge, Stone shelter with wooden sleeping platform. (You will need to bring and carry a sleeping bag and sleeping mat for this night out.)

Night 5 – University Albergue, Hoya de la Morra, fully catered refuge (shared rooms).

Night 6 – Refugio Poqueira Mountain Refuge, bunkroom accommodation

Night 7 – Capileira, simple hotel

Jane and Mike the owners of Mountain Walking Holidays are qualified International Mountain Leaders and have been living and guiding in the Sierra Nevada since 2002.

Bird Watching in the Alpujarra

Sardinian Warbler in the Alpujarra, southern Spain — Sardinian Warbler feeding on grapes at Finca Montaña

This years grape harvest was poor in The Alpujarra with many bunches of grapes shriveling up or bunches with only 5 or 6 grapes. As a consequence, many of the “frugal” bunches were left unpicked awaiting our annual pruning session in mid December. This coupled with a long, hotter than normal Autumn meant that not only did we have the normal birds hanging around, but that we even had a surprise visitor that we have not seen in the 11 years we have been here. A Sardinian Warbler which spent a lot of time feeding on the unpicked grapes. Even when we did finally prune the vines, we left the grapes dangling and were rewarded visitations from Robins and Blue Tits in addition to the Sardinian Warbler.

Our House, Finca Montaña is 1300m above sea level and it can get quite cool up here in the late autumn and winter. Snow doesn’t usually last more than 3 days as it’s always warm when the sun is out. However the night time temperature does often get down to around -8 degrees centigrade. That said our winter resident birds include: Golden Eagles, Griffon Vultures, Kestrels, Larks (crested and Sky), Black Eared Wheatears, Black Caps, Stone Chats, Robins, Blue Tits, Jays, Magpies and Ravens. A little above us (in the Juniper) we have Ring Ouzels (from around 2100m). But never before a Sardinian Warbler.

We are now planning to leave bunches of grapes every year in the hope of attracting more birds.

Black-eared Wheatear in southern Spain — Black-eared Wheatear at Finca Montaña

In Summer the list of birds to be seen expands dramatically to include Egyptian Vulture’s, Hoopoe’s, Bee Eaters and various swifts and Swallows to name a few.

Higher up on the mountain tops we are rewarded with Alpine Accentors which are remarkably tame on the summit of Mulhacen 3482 (mainland Spain’s highest mountain) where they have got used to being amongst people and feeding off the crumbs and remnants of sandwiches.

Spring is a good time to visit with both the migratory birds passing through and the summer visitors arriving. Finca Montaña is ideally placed for bird watching, situated very remote, in its own 5 acres of grounds but surrounded by mostly undeveloped natural mountain side and a few small holdings still mainly farmed in a traditional way.

It’s cool in the mountains! Summer arrives in The Sierra Nevada

Although summer has been a few weeks late in arriving this year, it has now arrived and is firmly established. Although our Mountain House is at 1300m above sea level, a few days ago I found it hard to sleep as the bedroom was airless and it was too hot to be comfortable inside at 21 degrees C. As a consequence I got up early and decided to check out the conditions on Veleta 3394m the second highest in Spain’s Sierra Nevada.

Leaving home at 6am where it was 21 degrees I drove to Hoya de la Mora (2500m) where it was a cool 13 degrees and felt distinctly cooler with a brisk wind blowing. The ascent of Veleta is one of the easiest of all the mountains in the Sierra Nevada. A gentle ridge and fairly good path for all but the final 200m of ascent where there is a steep zig zag path up through scree and boulders. Reaching Posiciones del Veleta at 3100m a Griffon Vulture soared overhead reminding me that I always see them when on Veleta. By the time I got the camera out and switched on it was too far to make a decent picture.

In total it took me two hours to reach the summit and although there was snow around, I didn’t have to cross any patches on my ascent. For most of the climb I was just about warm enough in shorts and a t shirt though my hands started to get cold near the summit. Once on the summit and no longer generating heat from the exertion of ascending I needed a windproof fleece hat and gloves. I guess it was around 5 degrees with the windchill. Cool!

I choose to descend towards the Carrihuela refuge 3205m down by the old track that used to cross the Sierra Nevada from Granada to Capileira on the south side of the range. As usual for this time of year the track was buried in snow for about 1Km beyond the refuge. On the way to the refuge there were a number of alpine plants coming into flower as the snow had recently receded. And I managed to get a few photo’s before the battery in my camera gave up! Notable were the Sierra Nevada Violet (Viola crassiuscula) and “Blue Dreams” (Chaenorrhinum glareosum). It was at this point with the camera out of action that I noticed a group of six Grifon Vultures circling above me!

At the Carrihuela refuge I met a cyclist who had wanted to take the old road and cross the snow with his bike heading for Capileira. The snow was still frozen hard and the slope to cross is very steep with a bad run off if you were to slip. Fortunately he had already decided against it though it would be a massive 120Km detour. He said he’d cycled the route a few years ago and I left him considering whether or not to wait until late afternoon when the snow might be safe enough for safe passage without crampons.

The rest of the descent back to Hoya de la Mora was a pleasant stroll though I could feel it warming up! Soon the gloves came off, the fleece hat was replaced by a buff and eventually the windproof came off too. It was a pleasant 22 degrees back at the car and I headed to the “University Albergue” for a cool beer and tappa.

Mountain Walking Holidays run guided walking holidays in Spain’s Sierra Nevada Mountains. Mike and Jane the owners of Mountain House Holidays are both qualified International Mountain Leaders.

They also run Sierra Nevada Guides and undertake guided walks for individuals and groups. There is a lot of useful information for people wanting to visit the Sierra Nevada on the Sierra Nevada Guides website.