Sierra Nevada Wildlife | Mountain Walking Holidays

The Tour of Mulhacén

Contemplating the summit of Mulhacen from the refugio Caldera

Mulhacén 3478m is the highest mountain in mainland Spain and is situated in the Sierra Nevada mountains of southern Spain. The Sierra Nevada is also Spain’s largest national park making this a very special area. The name Mulhacén is taken from the name of the penultimate Arab king, “Muly Hacen” when this was the Kingdom of Al-Andalus. Legend has it that he is buried on the mountain!

This is an especially nice walk, not just because of its stunning mountain scenery, but also the Sierra Nevada is famous for its wildlife. Our aim with The Tour of Mulhacén is to combine the best aspects of the Sierra Nevada National and Natural Parks, that make them such a special place, into a week long hike. This includes ascents of the two highest mountains in the Sierra Nevada: Veleta 3396m and Mulhacén 3482m.

A unique journey through the Sierra Nevada mountains, with the mighty Mulhacén in view. We start in the south at the mountain village of Capileira, following the GR240 to Trevelez, then over a high mountain pass to the north of the range, with it’s rugged scenery and wonderful views of the high peaks. From here we traverse the northern slopes staying in mountain refuges before returning to the south side for a final ascent of the two highest mountains, Veleta and Mulhacén itself. A true mountain experience and we believe a worthy challenge to the popular Tour of Mont Blanc!

Mulhacén situated in The Sierra Nevada National Park near the city of Granada around two hours drive from Malaga. There are several long distance trails passing through or around the Sierra Nevada, but none that combine the villages, the highest peaks and pass through the different and varied climatic and wildlife zones in a way that can be enjoyed.

Itinerary:

Day 1
Capileira to Trevelez

A route following the GR240 between the two highest villages in Andalucia. 6 to 7 hours walking with about 800m of ascent. However we take the National Park bus to the viewpoint of Puerto Molino 2400m where you will get your first glimpse of Mulhacen. From here the route is mostly downhill back to the GR240 and Trevelez.

The section after leaving the forest road although signposted has a very remote feel and requires careful navigation. In its own right a superb day of hill walking!

Day 2
Trevelez to The Postero Alto Refuge
Ascending the Rio Trevelez to Puerto Trevelez before descending to the Postero Alto Refuge. About 9 to 10 hours walking with 1500m of ascent. The hardest day on The Tour!

From Trevelez we follow the pleasant Rio Trevelez until the steep ascent of El Horcajo. With Horcajo conquered, we are now in the alpine zone and journey through a beautiful valley and alpine pasture to our high point of Puerto Trevelez at 2800m. All that remains is downhill to the Postero Alto Refuge.

The Postero Alto Refuge is a manned Refuge and although the bedrooms are shared, the food is plentiful and wholesome and the bar well stocked!

Day 3
Postero Alto Refuge to The Peña Partida Refugio (Bothy).

An easier day with a chance to pass the spectacular waterfalls of Los Lavaderos de la Reina. About 6 hours walking with about 650m of ascent.

The first 2 hours follows good paths through forest and clearings though gradually gaining height. Eventually we leave the forest behind and ascend gently through an area of remote mountainside. Although the day essentially follows the GR240, there is some tricky navigation across the remote mountain slopes where signposting is minimal should the mist come down!

The Peña Partida Refuge is unmanned. There are two wooden sleeping platforms that will each sleep four people. You will need a sleeping mat, sleeping bag, spare clothes, food etc. There is water about 5 minutes walk from the refugio.

Day 4
Peña Partida Refuge to The Cortijos del Hornillo (Bothy).
8 to 9 hours with the last 1.5 hours uphill.

For the first three hours we follow the GR240 mainly downhill to the Cucaracha (Cockroach) Refuge. Now we take a traversing path past the Aceral Refuge to the Rio Real. We now join the “Estrella” path and follow the river downstream to cross the spectacular bridge over the Rio Guarnon.

Now a final ascent begins to the Cortijos del Hornillo. Here there are several buildings and rooms that have sleeping platforms. Besides the larger of the buildings is an old threshing circle and just beyond that is a water supply. If this is not running you will have passed a small stream about 5 minutes before reaching Hornillo. Hornillo is a stunning situation to stay.

Day 5
The Cortijos del Hornillo to the University Albergue at Hoya de la Mora
A stunning day in the mountains. 5 to 6 hours.

We start the day with a short climb to join a path that traverses around the mountainside and leads us around into the San Juan valley. We continue to contour around to where the river crosses the path. The best way on is to climb the steep east side of the stream until we gain the stunning alpine pastures above. Continue on sheep tracks northwards until you reach the path that leads across to the observatory and down to the University Albergue. Beers, showers and a nice restaurant!

Day 6
Hoya de la Mora to the Refugio Poqueira via Veleta (3394m)
Around 6 hours walking.

Not as hard as you might think! Veleta means “weather vane” and at 3394m is the 2nd highest mountain in the Sierra Nevada. Our prefered option is to take the National Park bus to 3000m before the ascent of Veleta. This gives us time to take little used paths up Veleta’s north West ridge. Veleta is an easy and popular mountain and the summit is usually busy, however the path we use means we rarely pass others until we reach the summit. Today we can expect to see Ibex, Alpine Accentors and Vultures.

After Veleta we descend to the Carihuela Refuge (bothy), a good viewpoint and place to sit admiring the best views of both Mulhacén and Alcazaba (3371m and 3rd highest in the Sierra Nevada).

We now follow the old Sierra Nevada road for a short distance before descending the Rio Seco to spend the night in the Refugio Poqueira, a manned refuge with showers.

Day 7
A circuit on Mulhacén, 7 to 8 hours.

We choose to ascend Mulhacén by the “gentle” south ridge. Although this is a popular route and there will undoubtedly be others doing the same, it is a nice route offering plenty of sight seeing opportunities and some nice flowers in early summer. Our descent is via the west flank to the Caldera Refuge (bothy) with some fine views across the north face.

From the Caldera we take little used paths for about half of the descent back to the Refugio where we can celebrate our ascent of mainland Spain’s highest mountain.

Day 8
Refugio Poqueira to Capileira, 4 to 5 hours

Initially a steep path down to the Cortijo las Tomas and a further descent into the delightful Rio Poqueira. The path undulates for a while and there are a couple of river crossings before our descent to the hydro electric plant and the deserted village of La Cebadilla. From here we follow the road and signposted paths back to Capileira.

The Tour is now complete! There is no medal, no certificate, just the satisfaction of knowing you completed the Tour of Mulhacén.

Is this trip for me?
Most days we will be walking for around 7-8 hours on straight forward marked paths. You will need to carry a medium weight rucksack for the whole trip (we would recommend around 45 litres).

Mulhacén is 3482m and some paths cross the mountains at around 3000m. At this altitude you are likely to puff more, but should not feel any adverse affects.

We are offering the trek during August and September. You can reserve a place on the Tour of Mulhacén webpage or give us a call on 01433 639368 to talk through any questions you may have.

The Ideal Walking Holiday

Walking in the Taha de Pitres La Alpujarra — The Ideal Walking Holiday

Perhaps I’m getting “soft” as I get older, though I like to think that I am more discerning in my choice of walking holiday. My time is precious and I like to think that the following is my ideal list when searching out a destination suitable for my next trip away.

Good Weather
Stunning Scenery
Great Paths
A Sense of History
Interesting Wildlife
Culture to Discover
Nice Companions
Somewhere nice to Stay
Good, Fresh, Local Food
Ease of Access
Relatively Safe

Now I am biased because I have found my ideal destination and return to it frequently, mainly for my own enjoyment but also to lead others in what I consider the best hill walking in the world! This is The Alpujarra on the southern side of Spain’s Sierra Nevada Mountains and hills and valleys close by.

The Best Hill Walking

The walking in La Alpujarra is unsurpassed. Medieval paths criss-cross the landscape, sometimes cut through improbable cliffs and crossing ancient bridges some dating back to Roman times. This landscape was mainly formed by the Arabs, who settled in and ruled the ancient Kingdom of Al Andalus between the 7th and 14th centuries. Terraces carved out by the Arabs and water channels known as “acequias” form some of the trails in addition to the traditional pack horse trails.

Depending on the altitude of your chosen walk, you may be walking through terraces of citrus trees (great scrumping in March, April and May) with the heady scent of orange blossom in March. Higher up you will pass through olive and almonds, walnuts and chestnuts. The time for spectacular almond blossom is February and March.

spring oranges Lecrin

All of the allotments and terraces in this once agriculturally barren area are fed with water by the acequia’s, which feed water from the mountain streams and rivers across the whole area so everyone has a share of the water. The acequia have paths along side and can make for great walking though in some places you’ll need a head for heights. In addition to irrigation, water seeps from the acequia into the ground and springs known as fuente are abundant. One spring that we regularly pass is naturally carbonated and a swig of fizzy water from a spring can be quite a shock to the uninitiated!

Partly because the terrain is difficult for modern farm machinery, and partly because until recently its relative remoteness, modern farming is not prevalent in the Alpujarra. Because of this the old terraces often remain in tact and the traditional habitats remain for the wildlife.

Abundant Wildlife

Ibex, Sierra Nevada Wild flowers are abundant in April, May and June with many varieties of orchid. The wild mountain goat or Iberian Ibex is especially common and will be seen throughout the year. Bird watchers will not be disappointed at any time of year. Especially common are Golden and Booted Eagles, Egyptian and Griffon Vultures, Bee Eaters and Crag Martins (and many more). Our Wildlife of the Sierra Nevada Walking Holiday will help you explore the flora and fauna or the area.

The paths although passing through valleys and terraces, sometimes along acequias, essentially form a network connecting the villages. The characteristic of the villages in the Alpujarra is their Arab origins with architecture that would not be out of place in the High Atlas of Morocco. These “pretty” mainly white washed villages are epitomised by narrow streets (to keep the sun out), flat roofs, communal laundry washing houses and decorative chimneys. Perhaps the prettiest and best for walkers are Capileira, Bubion and Pampaneira.

All of the villages and small towns have an allotted market day. In itself these can be a spectacle, but the prices of fresh produce in season is amazing. Often the stallholders will be charging a Euro for a kilo of fresh produce and at the height of season that might become a Euro for a carrier bag of whichever fruit or veg they need to sell.

Walking Holiday Base

The Alpujarra or southern slopes of the Sierra Nevada is quite a big area so in terms of accessibility for the best walking, prettiest villages, etc., especially for a first acquaintance I’d stick to the western end. Two villages either of which would provide a suitable base depending on your chosen itinerary. If it’s just walking and a mountain environment you want the Capileira is a great base. If however you are visiting in the cooler months, March to mid April or want to visit other sights e.g. The Alhambra in Granada then Lanjarón is a good base and especially the Hotel Alcadima. From Lanjarón the Lecrin Valley is also accessible which provides great walking when there is the likelihood of cool weather.

The local (British) mountain guides, Sierra Nevada Guides have a host of additional information on their website including some walk descriptions. You can also hire a guide for a day or two to show you the best trails available.

Hotel Alcadima Lanjaron

If it’s a holiday, organised for you that you are looking for, then Mountain Walking Holidays run a range of Alpujarra Walking Holidays throughout the year based from the Hotel Alcadima in Lanjarón.

Mike and Jane who run Mountain Walking Holidays are both qualified International Mountain Leaders and will be happy to chat with you about the various options for a walking holiday In Spain’s Alpujarra.

The Tour of the Mulhacén Trek

Are you up for a real mountain adventure? Join us on the Tour of Mulhacén in 2017.

Mulhacén is 3482m high and is the highest mountain in mainland Spain and indeed the Iberian Peninsular. It is situated in The Sierra Nevada National Park near the city of Granada around two hours drive from Malaga. With around 300 days of sunshine a year the settled weather gives a much better chance for a week of walking in warm settled weather than the Alps or Pyrenees.

The Sierra Nevada is Spain’s largest National Park. It’s uniqueness stems from the large number of endemic species (over 100 with 63 species of endemic plants). During the Tour of Mulhacén walking holiday, we hope to share with you as much of the unique wildlife as possible.

flowers of the Sierra Nevada on a Mountain Walking Holiday — The (endemic) Star of the Snows

There are several long distance trails passing through or around the Sierra Nevada but none that combine the villages, the highest peaks and pass through the different and varied climatic and wildlife zones in a way that can be enjoyed.

The Sierra Nevada with its proximity to Granada was part of the old Arab Kingdom of Al Andalus. In fact the name Mulhacén is derived from Muley Hasan, the penultimate arab king, who legend states is buried on the mountain. The southern slopes of the Sierra Nevada are known as the Alpujarra and are characterised by pretty white villages in the Moorish style. Capileira, where this walk starts and finishes is perhaps the prettiest.

Our aim with The Tour of Mulhacén is to combine all of the best aspects that make the Sierra Nevada National and Natural Parks a special pace to enjoy into a week long hike. This includes ascents of the two highest mountains in the Sierra Nevada: Veleta 3396m and Mulhacén 3482m. This is a weeks walking itinerary with most days being of around 7 or 8 hours. The paths are mainly stoney mountain paths with some steep sections. We strongly recommend good hillwalking boots and the use of poles.

Walking in the Alpujarra — Near Trevelez

Mountain Walking Holidays through their extensive knowledge of this area have created this itinerary as a supported hike where most days your baggage is transferred for you. For one night you will have a real ‘mountain experience’ by staying in a remote mountain shelter and will need to carry any spare clothes, sleeping bag and mat for 2 days. There is a 2nd unsupported night where you will need to carry a sheet sleeping bag and personal clothes.

It is possible to undertake this hike unsupported but there are several long days with a lot of climbing. The good thing is though, there is with careful planning only one night out where you are genuinely in the wild where you will need to carry any food, stoves and sleeping bag.

Day 1 – Capileira to Trevelez.
A route following the GR240 between the two highest villages in mainland Spain.
6 to 7 hours walking with about 800m of ascent.

Day 2 – Trevelez to The Postero Alto Refuge.
Ascending the Rio Trevelez to Puerto Trevelez before descending to the Postero Alto Refuge. About 8 hours walking with 1500m of ascent.

Day 3 – Postero Alto Refuge to The Pena Partida Refugio (shelter).
An easier day with a chance to pass the spectacular waterfalls of Los Lavaderos de la Reina. About 6 hours walking with about 650m of ascent.

Day 4 – Pena Partida to The University Albergue at Hoya de la Mora.
Traversing the northern corries of Mulhacén and Veletta, these are less trodden, but wondferful valleys; to be savoured! 16.5Km with 1400m of ascent. About 8 hours walking.

Iberian Ibex, a common sight in the Sierra Nevada

Day 5
Hoya de la Mora to the Refugio Poqueira via Veleta (3394m) and Mulhacén (3482m).
Not as hard as you might think! We take the National Park bus to 3000m before the ascent of Veleta. Between Veleta and Mulhacén it is mainly easy walking apart from the final 400m climb. We end the day with a celebration in the Refugio Poqueira. 16.8Km with around 950m of ascent.

Day 6 – Refugio Poqueira to Capileira
A descent of the delightful Rio Poqueira back to Capileira. 4 to 5 hours.

How it works:
We meet you at Malaga Airport. From there we transport you to a simple hotel in the mountain village of Capileira, which at 1300m will start to help you with your acclimatisation to altitude. After one night in Capileira our trek begins……

The cost includes all travel, food (from supper on day one until breakfast on the day of departure), accommodation and the services of qualified International Mountain Leaders who know the area very well.

You will need to cover the costs of any drinks, additional snacks and provide your own flights.

Refugion Poqueira on the Tour of Mulhacen walking holiday — A celebration at the Refugio Poqueira!

Dates for 2017:

22nd to 30th July

16th to 24th September

(If you are a group wanting to undertake this trek with us, we are happy to discuss other dates).

Please note that on your arrival day we ask that your flight arrives into Malaga before midday. On the day of your departure, please arrange a flight that departs after 2pm.

Contact Mountain Walking Holidays today and book with us for this unique and unrivalled walking adventure.

Cold Fleabane, a very rare endemic species

Accommodation on this holiday

Night 1 – Capileira, simple hotel

Night 2 – Trevelez, simple hotel

Night 3 – Postero Alto Mountain Refuge, bunkroom accommodation

Night 4 – Penna Partida Refuge, Stone shelter with wooden sleeping platform. (You will need to bring and carry a sleeping bag and sleeping mat for this night out.)

Night 5 – University Albergue, Hoya de la Morra, fully catered refuge (shared rooms).

Night 6 – Refugio Poqueira Mountain Refuge, bunkroom accommodation

Night 7 – Capileira, simple hotel

Jane and Mike the owners of Mountain Walking Holidays are qualified International Mountain Leaders and have been living and guiding in the Sierra Nevada since 2002.

Four Incredible Wildlife Species of Spain’s Sierra Nevada

In this blog, the team at Mountain Walking Holidays discover what lurks on the mountain slopes and foothills of the Sierra Nevada.

Situated just 50 miles from the Spanish city of Malaga, the Sierra Nevada mountain range is a unique and glorious walking destination. Home to some stunning examples of European wildlife, it is the perfect place to visit for anyone fascinated by the wild world around us. With altitudes spanning a from just 700 m above sea level to the lofty heights of Mulhacen at 3482 m, the varying climate zones and ecosystems that go with them hold a huge degree of biodiversity, with over forty endemic animal species living amongst the mountain peaks of the Sierra Nevada.

In 1986, the Sierra Nevada was recognised as a place of natural importance and awarded the status of being a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, protecting many of the rare and beautiful species of wildlife that lived within the mountain range. Further protection was granted in 1998 when the reserve was declared a national park, making it Spain’s 11th – and largest – national park. To this day, Spain’s Sierra Nevada remains a haven for wildlife, allowing them to thrive and flourish.

While some of the animals are small, common, or unassuming – such as grazing cows or darting swifts – others are magnificent, rare and simply unmissable. If you are interested in travelling to see the wildlife of Sierra Nevada, why not join us on a walking and wildlife holiday.

Witness the Mountain Climbing Skills of the Iberian Ibex

Found all over the Sierra Nevada, from the lowest valleys to the highest peaks, Iberian ibex are powerful, mountain dwelling animals, famous for their ability to traverse the toughest of climbs. Females of this species are small, delicate looking things, very similar to your common goat. The males, however, are larger with mighty curled horns, striking a distinct figure against the mountainous backdrop.

While they may look dangerous, Iberian ibex are docile creatures and are known to get close to humans, hoping to scavenge leftover food.

Watch Eagles and Vultures Soar Over the Peaks of Spain’s Sierra Nevada

There is something magical about watching a large bird soar overhead, and this is often experienced in the Sierra Nevada. The ultimate birds of prey, eagles are beautiful predators and top of the list for a bird or wildlife enthusiast looking to catch a glimpse of some of the largest and most striking birds on the planet.

In the Sierra Nevada, you’ll find three separate species of eagle: golden, booted and Bonelli’s. All large, all incredible to behold, the eagles and vultures of the mountains soar above the wilderness below, seeking out their prey. Spotting one of these wild birds of prey is a thrilling experience, and one not soon forgotten.

Marvel at the Fragile Wings of Spain’s Most Beautiful Butterflies

What we at mountain walking holidays love about hiking through the Sierra Nevada is the opportunity you get to immerse yourself in the landscape around you, taking everything in, both great and small – an experience you could never have while driving, or flying overhead.

This up close and personal experience allows you to see the smallest details, including the fluttering of colourful wings. Many species of butterfly live up in the Sierra Nevada, its wild and protected habitat providing them with the perfect place to live and breed. Included in the list of butterflies native to the region are the Parnassius Apollo butterfly and Polyommatus golgus or Sierra Nevada Blue. Both threatened species, they have unique and distinctive patterned wings – Polyommatus golgus with bright blue rimmed by white and Parnassius Apollo featuring black and white stripes and deep red spots – well worth looking out for when admiring the mountain scenery.

Look Out for the the Vibrant Bee-Eater

In the summer months, you can see many beautiful migratory bird species in the Sierra Nevada, one of the most striking being the European bee-eater. Birds with colourful feathers of red, blue and yellow, bee-eaters flourish in the temperate climates of the Sierra Nevada, and can often be heard before they are seen.

Discover the Flora of the Sierra Nevada

The living species that survive and thrive within the Sierra Nevada are not limited to that of animals. Plants – from mighty trees to dainty wildflowers – have all made their home here. For example, in the high alpine regions, a magical zone of many endemic plant species, you’ll find plants such as the Erigeron frigidus, a species so rare it is thought only 130 specimens remain. Other examples of incredible flora in the Sierra Nevada include the brilliant blue Sierra Nevada Gentian, vibrant yellow brooms and perfumed wild herbs.

Our International Mountain Leaders are trained and assessed in environmental issues and environmental interpretation in addition to mountain guiding. Our Mountain Walking Holidays in the Sierra Nevada offer an opportunity to discover wildlife while exploring this beautiful corner of the world.

Birds and Wildlife walking

I heard my first cuckoo today, a sure sign of spring.

Spring is a great time to enjoy the birds on the southern slopes of the Sierra Nevada and Alpujarra. We have had some great sightings of Golden Eagles recently, seeking out food on the rocky slopes beneath our house. We have enjoyed watching the Larks look for worms and the Swallows and swifts are also back soaring above.

Birds can be enjoyed most times of the year; the Bee Eaters are particularly spectacular in summer, and one Autumn, we spent a day exploring the summit of the Lujar with Martin Riley. We can see the aerials from our house, and had often talked about walking to them. Martin suggested a better idea, driving! We were almost at the aerial station, when only a short distance away we saw a large group of Griffon Vultures soaring around the mountain side. An amazing and most rewarding sight was made even more stunning as one landed on a boulder, only feet away from us.

The rest of the day was spent exploring the karst outcrops beneath the summit, certainly worth another autumn or winter visit.

We are not birding experts, but if you enjoy watching wildlife why not join one of our Walking and Wildlife of the Sierra Nevada holidays.

Bird Watching in the Alpujarra

Sardinian Warbler in the Alpujarra, southern Spain — Sardinian Warbler feeding on grapes at Finca Montaña

This years grape harvest was poor in The Alpujarra with many bunches of grapes shriveling up or bunches with only 5 or 6 grapes. As a consequence, many of the “frugal” bunches were left unpicked awaiting our annual pruning session in mid December. This coupled with a long, hotter than normal Autumn meant that not only did we have the normal birds hanging around, but that we even had a surprise visitor that we have not seen in the 11 years we have been here. A Sardinian Warbler which spent a lot of time feeding on the unpicked grapes. Even when we did finally prune the vines, we left the grapes dangling and were rewarded visitations from Robins and Blue Tits in addition to the Sardinian Warbler.

Our House, Finca Montaña is 1300m above sea level and it can get quite cool up here in the late autumn and winter. Snow doesn’t usually last more than 3 days as it’s always warm when the sun is out. However the night time temperature does often get down to around -8 degrees centigrade. That said our winter resident birds include: Golden Eagles, Griffon Vultures, Kestrels, Larks (crested and Sky), Black Eared Wheatears, Black Caps, Stone Chats, Robins, Blue Tits, Jays, Magpies and Ravens. A little above us (in the Juniper) we have Ring Ouzels (from around 2100m). But never before a Sardinian Warbler.

We are now planning to leave bunches of grapes every year in the hope of attracting more birds.

Black-eared Wheatear in southern Spain — Black-eared Wheatear at Finca Montaña

In Summer the list of birds to be seen expands dramatically to include Egyptian Vulture’s, Hoopoe’s, Bee Eaters and various swifts and Swallows to name a few.

Higher up on the mountain tops we are rewarded with Alpine Accentors which are remarkably tame on the summit of Mulhacen 3482 (mainland Spain’s highest mountain) where they have got used to being amongst people and feeding off the crumbs and remnants of sandwiches.

Spring is a good time to visit with both the migratory birds passing through and the summer visitors arriving. Finca Montaña is ideally placed for bird watching, situated very remote, in its own 5 acres of grounds but surrounded by mostly undeveloped natural mountain side and a few small holdings still mainly farmed in a traditional way.